The photograph was taken by Isabella Cooper
Young independent designers of America made their presence known with the end of fashion week.
The New York Fashion Week kicked off last Friday with a celebration of everything pre-pandemic in the Hammerstein Ballroom.
Independent designers challenged notions of luxury.
Tia Adeola
In collaboration with Nike, Nigerian-born and New School-alum designer Tia Adeola created a shade of America. Adeola tried to stage a modern Harlem Renaissance.
Adeola said in her show notes that she mirroredMugler’s love for film noir. Adeola is a student of the skills of Manford Theirry Mugler, a French designer who died last January.
The collection wasn’t a homage from Adeola’s ruffled look. Adeola covered her breasts with crystals. Adeola referred to Mugler’s bare butt with sheer. Adeola romanticized male models with sheer and ruffled fashion. Adeola showed a full collection of clothes in February.
Adeola presented a safe luxury to her loyal customers.
Barragán
Several blocks away from Eugene Lang’s building, the ground was littered with literal trash. Mexican-American designer Victor Barragn returned to Fashion Week after a three-year break. In the most surprising showing, Barragn presented a mix of business casual uniforms, shorts and pants. This wasn’t the best thing. Having a standing room only audience glimpse at scattered walls of graffitied cartoons, while focusing on a procession of all white models walking through trash, was a lot of fun.
Barragn’s Latin models used to wear loose-fitting leather pants. Barragn has replaced them with a drug den. Isn’t this pretty?
Why did a masked child replace Barragn in the finale reprisal? Maybe it is an experiment. In the months to come, we will discover which retailers have corporate luxury.
Parsons MFA
The mirror of New York was provided by the designers. A blue gown emerged from Chung Meng Ling, while the nude shear from Zhiqing Zhang’s collection was graced over by a mandarin monogram. Sarah Hawes sent an attempt for gay visibility down the runway with two tattooed male models holding hands in dark blue coats and trousers while holding up a blank billboard sign, which created a performative display of activism, or worse, an idea was created moments before the runway. Hazel Clark was cast in a white two-piece to make her designs accessible to potential buyers. A middle-aged female model is the first and only brand to do so.
A brown balloon gown from Lui Lui reinforces gender stereotypes, while a picture of body size with a denim piece is accurate.
One of fashion’s long- lasting taboos is financial inequality. The models were carrying lifeless corpse puppets. A white headpiece and gold dress was worn by a black female model. Even if it wasn’t Kitamura’s initial thought process, his creation is an accurate representation of New York outside of Spring Studios.
New York has an inequality that makes it hard for many people to have financial stability. Those admitted to Fashion Week are only allowed to wait behind black velvet ropes. Designers get a show date on the calendar.
In a recent feature for Women’s Wear Daily, a young independent designer said there needs to be a few more avenues. The runway presentation was canceled due to a lack of funds.
The summary for New York Fashion Week is pretty good. Taboo subjects were brought to the runway under a possible subjection of the 1990s house soundtrack.
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