The month of fashion has arrived. Photographers are snapping away as guests dress to the nines in their finest clothing. We want to see what the designers are up to this season, especially the emerging names.
Each designer has their own design language. This is also true when it comes to the UK’s talent pool. Alexander Mcqueen and Christopher Kane were once emerging designers, but over time, they evolved into some of the greatest talents of our generation.
From top university graduates to creatives with a global eye, the city is known for its innovative development and shows no signs of slowing down. As we head into London Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2023 season, which has seen cancellation from Burberry and Raf Simons, as well as unfortunate pull-outs from Saul Nash, here are five emerging UK designers.
Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
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Edward Crutchley
Edward Crutchley launched his eponymous label in 2015 on the basis of craftsmanship and luxurious motifs, marking his beginnings on the Fashion East roster. Since graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins, which has been attended by the likes of John Galliano, Kim Jones, and Richard Nicoll, Crutchley has gone on to mentor others. In the years that followed, he earned a lot of awards for his design language. He stood as a finalist for the BFC Fashion Fund and was the first to be awarded two Woolmark Prizes.
The up-and-coming designer dressed his models in half- eaten dresses, velvet boiler suits and puffy gowns in bright purple. There were nipple-clamp earrings, floor-length knitted cardigans, and restless leather motorcycle jackets. Submerged in premium constructions and detailed stories, the fast-approaching SS23 season is set to deliver a new world of craziness.
S.S. DALEY
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
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Isidore Montag
Steven is a storyteller. His theatrical performances give a detailed narrative behind the collection. His previous showcases evoked the human tale of unruly school relationships and sealed his fate as a one to watch.
The British class system can be challenged by casting actors rather than models in his collections, and paying tribute to his teen years in theater practice. He takes a deep dive into Britain’s societal divide by examining the modern British uniform, which blurs the lines between class cultures.
The designer doesn’t rely on clothing alone as his garments often come with a historic breeze. The designer asked if the dissolution of stately homes was a good idea, and hired London dance school students for a performance filled with influences from motion and theater.
S.S. Daley will hold his Spring/Summer 2023 showcase at the St. Pancreas Renaissance Hotel in London this Saturday.
FEBEN
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
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Chris Yates
FEBEN is known for crafting collections for women. Feben Vemmenby’s sleek designs are sophisticated and eye-catching, having been worn by the likes ofBeyonce and Michaela Coel. In order to shine a light on the beauty of Black Femme bodies, the graduate often protects her creations in a shield of political delivery. Her craft is a reflection of her past experiences and life events, as she has grown along the way.
The designer was stimulated by the idea of love and personal growth in the latest collection. Her trademark bobble technique, drafted from inviting silk fabrics, informed addictive ruffled textures that decorated dresses and suits in elegant tones of chocolate brown, crimson and other deep autumnal colors.
For her third London Fashion Week runway show, FEBEN will present under the auspices of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN cohort, a creative initiative designed to aid in the development of emerging UK fashion talent. Individual mentoring, business management training, and financial assistance are offered by the leadership scheme.
Chet Lo
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
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Filippo Fior
Asian-American designer Chet Lo has fixed himself as a name to watch. Recognized for his fishing wire knitwear technique worn by the likes of Doja Cat and SZA, Lo injects his fascination for Japanese comics and films into his craft, mirroring his home turf. Much like aforementioned designers on our list, Lo attended the prestigious Central Saint Martins arts institution, interning under industry heavyweights, like Proenza Schouler and John Galliano’s Maison Margiela.
The designer joined Fashion East last season with his debut collection, “Splash.” It delivered a sense of tropical brightness to the gloomy quarantine-filled days that had overwhelmed the past two years. The newcomer took us on a coastal getaway and set sail through an ocean of spiked swimwear and accessories that romanticized the idea of holiday life.
For his second and final Fashion East showcase, he took to the Alps with an array of skiwear perfect for eccentric skiing. He is set to make his solo debut away from the Fashion East class and is sure to present a bunch of marvellous creations infused with his East-meets-West perspective.
HARRI
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
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Francisco Rosas
London College of Fashion graduate Harikrishnan has catapulted his billowing elastic fashion into the stratosphere, making a name for himself through exaggerated silhouettes that speak volumes. The Kerala-born designer – whose brand is known as HARRI – first introduced his inflated design style in his 2020 graduate collection show. Ever since, he has taken the world by storm through his self-inflatable latex trousers that emit amusement at first glance.
The bottoms are crafted from thirty individual Supatex panels, pumped to give a buoyant feel. Often building on intricate sculptural references and fantastical themes, the designer pairs his cartoonish creations with cropped blazers, handmade beaded tops and bottoms colored with natural beeswax and lacquer dyes.
Harikrishnan has been named a BFC Newgen recipient, joining the likes of Ahluwalia and Saul Nash in the class of 2023. On Friday, he will be making his fashion week debut away from university grounds, giving his novel artform to a fresh set of eyes.