Fri. Sep 29th, 2023
Tom Ford Closes Fashion Week Not With a Bang, But a Whimper
Tom Ford Closes Fashion Week Not With a Bang, But a Whimper

He’s been adrift for a long time. Tom Ford owned Milan in the late ’90s and early aughts, and when he was at Gucci, he owned the space in which he displayed. He commanded the lighting, the look of the girls and your attention. Everyone did sex better. The low, plush lounge seating, the glossy runway, the driving dance beats were all recreated by him when he took over the design of Yves Saint Laurent.

For the past few years, Ford, who is based in Los Angeles, has shown in a couple of different places. He presented his spring 2023 collection in an anonymous looking room in one of the modern sugar cube buildings near the Freedom Tower. The scene was re-created, but magic wasn’t there. He showed lingerie with black leather jackets and boots, as well as metallic blazers, rodeo-style shirts, skimpy bras and ultra short gym shorts, tracksuits and lightweight jackets in reflective pastels, and more.

The man is Tom Ford. Dan Lecca is the photographer.

On Wednesday night, Ford used a lot less fabric than he did a year ago when he last showed here. Instead of the black cotton stretch bras he sent out last September, he had lace ones or cupless bras with two open triangles of fabric. When established designers do something youthful and contemporary, and clothes that reveal the sexual parts of the body are a phenomenon, we tend to praise them for being up to date.

It is1-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-6556 is1-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-65561-6556 There are kids all over New York City who can do sexy better than him and who would not approve of his pretty bras. The chairman of Tom Ford International is said to be in talks to sell his company. The rest of Ford’s career may be spent doing other creative work, like making movies. The Freddie Mercury version of “Time Waits for No One” could have been a more fitting song for him to close his show.

There is a man named Willy Chavarria. There is a photo of Selwyn Tungol.

Most of the thrills far from the old Establishment center have been experienced in the New York season. At the historic Marble Collegiate Church on Fifth Avenue, Willy Chavarria put on a show called Please Rise, which was serious in its elegance and funny in its procession of sharp-waisted suits, some sporting fat taffeta corsages. The cut of the jackets was the key. The references to church robes were also there. An hour late, the show featured a large cast of mostly Latinx and Black models and attracted a full house of guests including Madonna.

The person is Michael Kors. The photo is from Gorunway.com

The crisp collection of glamour suits in vivid white, red, and camel (the colors of the Kors flag) with blazers tossed over the shoulders of silky blouse and bra tops and worn with silk-fringed skirts, metallic beaded, was presented by Michael Kors. Dark tailored jackets with fringed backs and woodcut-print shirt dresses with fringe hems looked new. There was a nod to the 70s-era Halston in a red-silk caftan and some of the streamlined knit styles as well as the belts, metal cuffs and tiny flasklike pendants. The belt was a duplicate of one done by Kors. The original designs of the bone cuff, the perfume bottle pendant, and the necklace of Halston were brought to mind with the combination of all three accessories. The Peretti stamp is well known and even if it were different, it would still be the same stamp.

Tom Ford did not close the fashion week with a bang.