She is an artist.
The show rehearsal was brief, but beautiful, and the show ended with a tiny car. There was platform Crocs, a sleeping-bag mini dress, a Gen Z take on green screens, and more. We are still thinking about some of the moments from New York Fashion Week, Day 5.
There is a Greek myth about the goddess of dawn. She wraps herself in wool that is spun by the daughters of the sun, and as the yarn from her cape gets caught in the wind, she creates a sunrise that can be seen each morning. Peter Do did something similar with this look, but he’s a strict seamster, so nothing is going to change. My heart is not part of it.
There’s been a lot of denim-on-denim this Fashion Week, but Rentrayage is doing it the best way, with zero waste practices, entirely upcycled materials, and a really keen sense of how clothes shouldn’t just get worn. There’s a double denim combo for the hippie romantics out there, with a big black blazer, and those pants could have a second life drinking martinis with a Knopf VP.
3 The Deconstructed Ariel at Jonathan Simkhai
She wants to be a part of the community. We are here for the Little Mermaid color tribute, which features aqua, azure, and sea-snarled red hair. You have to kiss the girl if you have a look like this. With her enthusiastic consent.
Continue reading if you don’t want to stop here.
She name-checked works by the Ancient Greek poet Sappho, the sculptor Imi Knoebel, and the pastor Shirley Caesar when she designed her line. She’s using fabric that’s already been made and warehoused, but never used, to reduce her carbon footprint. Is it possible for newness to exist without new things? Simply look at her line.
5 The Stealth Second Show at Tory Burch
This one was no exception, and it was one of the best fashion shows of all time. We’re probably black and blue because we fell so hard for the glitter-dusted eyelids. There was a show-within-a-show at Tory Burch and it was hours before Sydney Sweeney took her front row seat. It happened when the models wore matching track pants and jackets to practice the runway path. The whole thing only took a few minutes, and the photos are very cool, as fashion dream girls like Lineisy Montero and Vittoria Ceretti become a tangle of long limbs, tossed hair, and tangerine flower power. I didn’t want a track suit before, but I do now. As usual, she is a genius in marketing and a style oracle. There’s so much to learn, sign me up for all the summits.
Continue reading if you don’t want to stop here.
6 The Sole-Searching at Adeam
Do we need to talk about the patent leather platforms at Adeam? Breaths deep. We can get through this.
There is a woman in a beach cruiser driving herself out of a show. The moment was captured by Martin Romero, who is becoming one of our favorite NYFW photographers thanks to the joy he gets on freeze frame.
Continue reading if you don’t want to stop here.
8 No Screen Time at Brandon Maxwell
While we understand that you use your cellular device for work, we also support you turning it off to enjoy the show. There was a lot to enjoy, so hopefully Mr. Maxwell can excuse us for not following him. His soundtrack of birds and forest sounds lowers blood pressure. We needed it because of the traffic on Sixth Avenue.
9 Soooo Much Screen Time at Maisie Wilen
There is a kind of tech anxiety in the youth culture. On Industry, the constant ping of a cell phone can mean doom. You can see it in Bodies Bodies Bodies, where there is a killer revealed. You saw it at Maisie Wilen, where models wore runes, space photos, and pixels on their faces, ready to transform into girls. Wilen, a Gen Z girl who can really hold her creative ground, has called to attention.
The opening look of Gabriela Hearst is on the left.
Our protective instincts are on the rise, right? According to any news station, with a good reason.
Continue reading if you don’t want to stop here.
11 The People-Watching (or Is That People, Watching?) at Adam Lippes
New York is a moving picture book. Adam Lippes decided to have his girls walk through the city streets after Fashion Week. There were crisp poplin shirts and red slink-sheaths thrown against the steel-on-stone backdrop of Hudson Harbor. Some onlookers gaped, and some looked up, and then returned to playing Wordle. It’s a moment, for sure.
12 The Parachute Party Dress at Bosideng
It’s cool to see this era’s most persistent trends distilled into one sweet little dress, but I’m not entirely sure what’s happening with this Bosideng puffer sleeping-bag corset mini. It’s similar to if Ariana Grande went to Burning Man.
Continue reading if you don’t want to stop here.
13 The Royal Puma Tenenbaum
June Ambrose turned the runway into a cast of characters, including a dance crew, a group of girls, and a bride and groom. I really liked the mash-up of Richie and Tenenbaum. A camel blazer is genius. Next season they’re going to make sneaker loafers.
You can sign up for the daily style and shopping newsletter.
Please use a valid email address
My information will be used as described in the Privacy Notice, if I sign up.