The last day of New York Fashion Week was Thursday. The weeklong series of events is fashion’s grand mainstage and includes the storied after parties, the real-life ” Devil Wears Prada” moments and celebrity spotting. Designers willil their way to the top to showcase their collections to buyers, press and fashion enthusiasts in order to signal the styles and silhouettes that will dominate retail in the coming months.
There was an appearance from Janet Jackson and a show at Elizabeth Taylor’s former home. The Blonds closed out the week with a bang, thanks to the help of a couple of famous people. The commercialization, exclusiveness and fanfare of New York Fashion Week may be attractive to the human eye, but at times it is not. The lack of plus-size models on the runway, the constant email in the days prior, and general fatigue are all unseen.
It’s the stories that designers tell with their fashion lines that keep me coming back. I used to watch models walk at New York Fashion Week on my laptop. Some labels tried to change the wheel while others seemed to lose the plot. The craftsmanship, atmosphere and cohesive visions from the three visionaries were the highlights of the week. Black designers dominated this season.
FE NOEL
American designer Felicia Noel has a collection called “Wish You Were Here” In 25 pieces, the Brooklyn-based designer showcased a range of colors, from plum purple to chocolate brown to teal.
Fe Noel created a collection that was romantic and feminine. The collection sought to capture the feeling of being both fearless and buttoned up as it transitioned from a light to a dark shade. Fe Noel’s structured blazers and pantsuits were perfect with the feminine slip dresses and gowns. The desire for the aptly titled collection was obvious with a runway soundtrack that included Louis and Etta James.
There was a 16-foot train couture gown. The fake paper money is symbolic of the $1.6 million that women lose in retirement savings due to the wage gap. Noel wrote, “the collective goal is to close the gap and #retireinequality for good.”
SERGIO HUDSON
The collection was sexy and bright. Hudson has styled both the First Lady and the Vice President. He can transform tired business attire into a spectacle. He incorporated eye-catching colors such as terracotta and fuschia into this collection, along with twists on classic black and white striped and polka dot prints.
Hudson incorporated velvet, suede and leather into various cuts and crevices. Collection 10 featured jumpsuits with peekaboo cut-out, sleek dress silhouettes and sharp structure in the blazers, designed to empower women. Hudson said she wanted to do something beautiful, bold, and sexy, while still maintaining a clean and modern feel. The show was an homage to drama in the best possible way.
Aoki Lee Simmons walked in the show with names like Winnie Harlow and Maria Borges. There is no better place to see a Black Southern designer’s vision come to life than in the audience.
ALIÉTTE BY JASON REMBERT
The fashion gods saved the best for last when I needed that extra push. The Georgia Room of the Freehand Hotel was the location for a stunning collection by designer Jason Rembert. Please, and thanks, we need more “Knuck If You Buck” moments on the runway.
Rembert knows how to get people to pay attention. His spring- summer 2023 collection was the epitome of glamor. The 30-piece collection transitioned from vibrant greens to rosy pinks, bold turquoise and golden yellow and was one of the highlights of the show. The guests were given a white flower, which was a take on the phrase, “Give someone their flowers”.
Rembert said in memory of his mother that many black women don’t know how good they are. The collection features corsets and floral accents on the neckline and shoulders. It was one of the few times in which I found myself completely immersed in a show.
